Based on documentary evidence, the Priory Church of St Mary’s in Abergavenny has been a place of worship since the late 11th century; archaeological evidence though suggests that the site has a much earlier period of use. Over the past 1000 years the church has been radically altered to reflect its wealth, status and, sometimes, its decline. During the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries a number of drastic alterations were made that included the complete demolition and rebuild of the nave. This wholesale change, coupled with the Reformation of 1536 and the vandalism of the mid- to late 17th century by Cromwell’s troops did not deter the people of Abergavenny from using this most beautiful of spaces. At the end of the 20th century, the Monuments Restoration project led to the monuments in the Herbert Chapel being restored.
Choir & Sanctuary
The finely carved 15th Century monastic choir stalls were once separated from the nave by a rood screen. The name Wynchester indicates their dating, and it is clear that they were introduced into the church by the Herbert family under sponsorship from King Henry VII. There is a misericord on the south side depicting the Tudor Rose and Prince of Wales feathers dedicated to Prince Arthur, eldest son of King Henry VII. Opposite on the north side of the stalls is Catherine of Aragon’s seat. It is thought that in the Commonwealth period, the high altar was used a dining table by Cromwell’s solders, who stabled their horses in the nave. The choir stalls are carved with the initials and dates of boys when the church was used as a school in the 18th century.
Eva de Braose
In the Chancel is the heart tomb of Eva de Braose, who died in 1246, her effigy bearing a shield decorated with the Cantilupe fleurs de lis. It is the oldest monument in the church and it is thought that the tomb contains her heart, brought back from Jerusalem where she died while on pilgrimage. (In 1175, her ancestor William de Braose carried out the Abergavenny Massacre, luring three Welsh princes and other Welsh leaders to their deaths by inviting them to Abergavenny Castle for a feast on Christmas Day. This event is commemorated in the Abergavenny Tapestry.)
A Hastings Lady
Another petite effigy in the chancel is that of an Hastings lady who is believed to be Margaret Plantagenet, wife of John de Hastings. She is known as the squirrel lady and fell to her death from the ramparts of Abergavenny Castle.
Herbert Chapel
The Herbert Chapel (dedicated to St Benedict) contains the greater part of the church’s collection of monuments. Three stunning monuments are evidence of the Renaissance English School of alabaster carving.
Sir Lawrence de Hastings
Sir Lawrence de Hastings was the 13th Lord of Abergavenny, who died in 1348 during the Black Death Plague. He was a distinguished soldier, indicated by his armour, and he fought at the Battle of Sluys and at Crecy in the Hundred Years War.
Sir William de Hastings
The stone tomb in the window recess to the south of the chapel is presumed to be that of Sir William de Hastings, brother to and companion to Sir Lawrence de Hastings. He also died in the Black Death Plague in 1348.
William ap Thomas and Gwladys
Sir William was a successful Welsh squire who fought at Agincourt with Henry V (where Gwladys’ father, Sir David Gam, and her first husband, Sir Robert Vaughan, died). William (scion of the Herbert dynasty) was later knighted, became rich and powerful, and built the Yellow Tower at Raglan Castle. The Herberts prospered greatly by supporting King Edward IV.
Sir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook
On the north side of the Chapel is the tomb of Sir Richard Herbert and his wife Margaret, who lived at Coldbrook, one of the finest fortified mansions in Wales, which survived until just before the Second World War. He, with his brother William Herbert, were prominent in the wars of the roses and they were both beheaded at the battle of Edgecote. They had discovered Henry Tudor, later Henry VII, and brought him up at Raglan Castle in their guardianship.
Sir Richard Herbert of Ewyas
The impressive alabaster monument encased within an elaborate window arch on the south side of the chapel is that of Sir Richard Herbert of Ewyas, natural son of Sir William Herbert, first Earl of Pembroke, and himself a son of Sir William ap Thomas and the Lady Gwladys. He was brought up with Henry Tudor at Raglan Castle, and later assisted Henry VII when he returned to Wales and claimed the throne of England after the battle of Bosworth.
Monument to William & Joan Baker
This 17th Century tomb shows William and Joan kneeling at prayer. It is elaborately and beautifully carved in local stone, and it is thought that the artist carried out the work ‘in situ’.
Judge Andrew Powell and his wife Margaret
These two very worn figures complete the collection of Herbert tombs. They are presentations of Judge Andrew Powell and his wife Margaret who was connected to the Herbert family.
North Transept – Sir John de Hastings
A further great wooden figure is that of Sir John de Hastings, dating from c.1325. This beautifully carved figure was for many years associated with George de Cantiloupe.
More recently, it has been clearly identified as being that of the man who most significantly contributed to the 14th century rebuilding of the Priory.
The newly constructed tomb on which the figure lies contains panelling from the knight’s original tomb, which would have stood at the centre of the choir. Depressions on the side once held brightly enamelled heraldic shields. The cross-legged posture was a fashion popular before 1330 or 1340 and his feet rest on a lion, a symbol of courage and strength.
Lewis Chapel – Dr David Lewis
Dr David Lewis (d.1584) was a local man who achieved fame by becoming an advisor to Queen Elizabeth I and was appointed first principal of Jesus College, Oxford.
It is from Dr Lewis that the Lewis Chapel (dedicated to St Joseph) takes its name. He was the eldest son of Sir Lewis ap John (alias Wallis), Vicar of Abergavenny, and chose to take his father’s Christian name after the Welsh practice.
He was a man of his age and one of great academic distinction. He was elected a Fellow of All Souls College, Oxford, in 1541, and was awarded the degree of Doctor of Civil Law. He was one of the founders and first principal of Jesus College, as well as being appointed Judge of the High Court of Admiralty, Master of St Catherine’s Hospital, London, and one of the Masters in Chancery. He was MP for Monmouthshire in 1554. He died in 1584 in London, and his body brought to Abergavenny to be buried beneath a tomb that he had commissioned from the Herefordshire sculptor, John Gideon, during his lifetime.
Wall hangings
The two exquisite wall hangings which grace the Baptistry of St Mary’s Priory were designed and made by Elizabeth Brown, a regular member of the congregation here in the Abergavenny Ministry Area. The 20 feet long by 40 inches wide hangings are entirely hand made and took Elizabeth just 10 months to complete, working four to six hours a day – although not every day – starting on August 28, 2006, and finishing on June 28, 2007. They were unfurled and blessed during the Parish Eucharist on Sunday, September 9, 2007.
The fabrics, some of which date back to the 1920s, include raw silks, silks, satins, cloth of gold, brocade, crash, linen, cotton and wool and the designs depict Christian symbols of light and life. The discipline is stained-glass patchwork.
Elizabeth ‘s great love is researching and creating ecclesiastical designs and her works include fifteen wall hangings in St Elizabeth of Hungary, in Belvedere, Harare, and one at St Aldhelm’s, Swindon, England.
In Memoriam
Those who paid the ultimate sacrifice in two World Wars are commemorated on memorials in the North Aisle of the church.
They include a memorial to the parishioners of St Mary’s and Christchurch who lost their lives in the 1914-18 war; the 79 officers and 946 men of South Wales Borderers 24th Regiment and Monmouthshire Regiment who died during 1939-45; and all those who lost their lives at sea. There is also a small brass memorial to the men of the staff of Pen y Fal Hospital who died during the Great War. This was removed from Pen y Fal when the facility was converted into apartments and was dedicated at St Mary’s on Palm Sunday 1998.
Various regimental Standards have been laid up in the church, again on the North Aisle, the latest of which was the Standard of the Abergavenny Royal British Legion Women’s Section in 2023, and a poignant service takes place each year on Remembrance Sunday during which crosses of red Flanders’ poppies are laid in tribute to those who ‘gave their tomorrows for our todays’.
Perhaps the most remarkable memorial to a solider of the First World War is the magnificent East Window through which light pours on to the High Altar. The fine stained glass was given by Mrs Randle Barker in memory of her husband, Brigadier Barker, who was killed in action during the war. It is an extraordinary window in so many ways, depicting the Virgin and Child, between Christopher bearing the Christ-child and Michael fighting the dragon. The crucified Christ is seen below on a cross of lilies, between Gabriel and the Virgin Mary as an Annunciation scene. Christ in Majesty appears at the centre of the tracery, surrounded by angels holding symbols of the Passion and flanked by the martyrdom of Sebastian and George fighting the dragon. Standing figures of Martin and Patrick as bishops are seen in the outer lights, with the symbols of the four evangelists above and below. Above the main figures are roundel heads of Jeremiah, Isaiah and Ezekiel. The arms of Llandaff and of Canterbury are found in the lower left and right of the window.